THE CALICO-PRINTER.

Calicoes were first brought to England from India, in the year 1631, and derived their name from the province of Calicut, where they were chiefly made or exported. Calico is a sort of cloth resembling linen, but is made of cotton. It was first manufactured in this country about the year 1772, or 1773. Various attempts had been made, previous to this time, to manufacture cloth with cotton warp or web, but owing to a variety of imperfections, they all proved unsuccessful ; but the improvements which rapidly followed the introduction of machine spinning, soon remedied the defect.

The manufacture of calicoes was begun at Blackburn, in Lancashire, which has since become the great mart for calicoes, and the chief source whence the printers of Lancashire, as well as those of London and Scotland, are supplied.

The art of Cloth-printing, or Calico-printing, in other words, of dying in certain colours particular spots of the cloth, while the ground shall be of a different colour or entirely white, affords, perhaps, the most direct and obvious illustration of the application of chemical principles.

The first hint towards the branch of business was had from the Indian chintzes. Calico printing was introduced into London in the
year 1676, and it has since been encouraged by various acts of parliament.

In the East Indies they paint all their calicoes with the pencil, which they must do with great expedition, as the price there is very low ; but here the following method is adopted : the pattern is first drawn on paper the whole breadth of the cloth intended to be printed ; the workman then divides the pattern into several parts according to its size, each part being about 8 inches broad by 12 inches long; each distinct part or pattern thus divided is cut out upon wooden blocks ; the cloth to be printed is extended upon a table, and the types being covered with the proper colours, are laid on. and the impression is left upon the cloth. The workman begins to lay on the types at one end of the piece, and so continues till the whole is finished ; great care must be taken that the patterns join with accuracy, and that there is no interstice or vacancy left.

Cutting the pattern in wood being the most curious part of the process, we shall describe that particularly. The cutters in wood begin with preparing a plank or block of the proper size : beech, pear-tree, and box, are used for this purpose; but the box-tree is the most fit for the business, as being the closest and least liable to be worm-eaten. As soon, as the wood is cut into the proper size, and made very smooth,, it is fit to receive the drawing or design. Sometimes ink is used ; and, to prevent its running, it is rubbed over with a mixture of white lead and water, and after it is dry it is rubbed off and polished.

On this the design is drawn ; and those who cannot draw themselves make use of designs furnished by others whose profession, is to draw patterns. The drawing marks out so much of the block as is to be spaced or left standing. The rest they cut off, and take away very curiously with the point of exceedingly sharp knives, or little chisels or gravers.

Block Engraving differs from that on copper in this, that, ,in the former the impression comes from the prominent parts or strokes
left uncut, whereas in the latter it comes from channels cut in the metal.

The manner of printing with wooden prints is easy and expeditious, if there he only two colours;;— as green and blue; or black and
a white ground, then the block requires only to be dipped in the printing-ink and impressed on the cloth. If more colours are used, then they are to be laid on with a brush or brushes and the impressions to be made as before with the hand.

When the whole piece is printed, the cloth is washed and bleached, to take away any accidental stains it may have acquired in the operation ; it is then dried, calendered, and laid up in folds fit for the shop.

The application of engraving on copper, has given biirth to a new and important branch of Calico-printing. It first introduced those machines, whose subsequent improvement has so much contributed to the perfection of the art, and which surpasses the ordinary mode of block-printing, not only in neatness, accuracy, and precision, but still more in the economy and art with which the labour is performed.

These machines are of two kinds : — the flat press, and the rolling or cylinder press.

The flat press, in its original form, was merely a modification, considerably enlarged, of the press for ornamental prints or engravings ; to which was added a contrivance for joining with accuracy, the numerous and successive impressions necessary to cover a piece of cloth. It was confined at first, to one colour, but later improvements have extended it to two or even three. The single-colour presses are, however, principally in use.

In order to the proper reception of the different colours on the calico, it is necessary that it should be prepared by a previous process with what is usually called a mordant ; that which is principally used is the ascetate of argil. It is prepared by dissolving 3lbs. of alum, and 1lb. of ascetate of lead, in 8 lbs. of warm water. An exchange of the principles of these salts takes place ; the sulphuric acid of the alum combines with the lead, and the compound thus formed being insoluble in water, is precipitated ; the ascetic acid remains united with the argil of the alum in solution ; there are added at the same time two ounces of the potash of commerce, and two ounces of chalk ; the principal use of which appears to be to neutralize the excess of acid that might cut on the colouring matter and alter its shade. The calico is steeped in this liquor, and afterwards rinsed and dried : it is then proper for the reception of the colours.

Calico-printing is reckoned a very good business both for the master and his journeyman : the master, however, requires a large
capital, a situation plentifully supplied with good and clear water, and extensive ground for bleaching and drying the cloths. He employs three sorts of hands; the pattern-drawer, the cutters of the types, who are also the operators in printing, and a number of labourers to assist in. washing. The pattern-drawer is paid according to the variety and value of the designs ; and the printer, who is able also to cut with ability and taste, can, in the summer months, earn four or five guineas a week or more.

.A youth designed for this business, ought to have a genius for drawing, a good eye, and a delicate hand. The business is not laborious, arid the chief care is in the choice of a master who will do justice to his apprentice. Most Calico-printers have some peculiar secrets in the preparatiou of their colours, which they ought to be bound to reveal to those whom they undertake to teach the art, since on the knowledge of this depends principally the success of the lad.