THE STRAW-HAT MAKER.

The Straw-hat maker, as a separate trade, is become of more importance than it formerly was : it is confined ohiefly to the female sex, and engages them not only in the making of hats for females, but bonnets of every variety and shape.

The history of this trade is involved in the same obscurity as the generality of those trades whose commonness excites no attention from mankind ; and where although, both for ornament and use, they become a source both of profit, convenience, and pleasure, yet their trivial nature are esteemed below the dignity of the historian and the philosopher. The use of straw for various domestic purposes is unquestionably very ancient ; and it is not difficult to suppose that after using straw and rushes for mats, that both would soon be converted to covering for the body, particularly the head, in a variety of ways and shapes.

We learn from undoubted authority, that the islanders of the South-seas, when first visited by Captain Cooke, made use of mats
of straw, or rushes, for the purposes of defence, and we think it is pretty evident, that straw would offer, from its obviousness to man, a ready material, both ornamental and useful, in the earliest ages of society ; and, indeed, we have no doubt that such was the case : but how it became improved to the present elegance and taste, conjecture rather than fact is to supply us with the history.

There are few manufactures in the kingdom in which so little capital is wanted, or the knowledge of the art so soon acquired, as in
that of straw-platting. One guinea is quite sufficient for the purchase of the machine and materials for employing two persons several months.

The straw is cut at the joints ; and the outer covering being removed, it is sorted of equal sizes, and made up into bundles of eight or ten inches in length, and a foot in circumference. These are then to be dipped in water, and shaken a little, so as not to retain too much moisture ; and then the bundles are to be placed on their edges in a box which is sufficiently close to prevent the evaporation
of smoke. In the middle of the box is an earthen dish, containing brimstone broken in small pieces : this is set on frre, and the box
covered over, and kept in the open air several hours.

It will be the business of one person to split and select the straw, for fifty others who are braiders. The splitting is done by a small
machine made principally of wood. The straws, when split, are termed splints, of which each worker has a certain quantity : on one end is wrapped a linen cloth, and they are held under the arm, and drawn out as they are wanted.

Platters should be taught to use their second fingers and thumbs, instead of the forefingers, which are often required to assist in turning the splints, and facilitate very much the platting; they should also be cautioned against wetting the splints too much. Each platter should have a small linen work bag, and a piece of pasteboard to roll the plat round. After five yards have been worked up, it should be wound about a piece of board half a yard wide, fastened at the top with yarn, and kept there several days to form it in a proper shape. Four of these parcels, or a score, is the measurement by which the plat is sold.

A good platter can make threescore a week, and good work will always command a sale both in winter and summer. The machines are small ; they may be bought for two shillings each, and will last for many years.

When the straw is platted, it comes into the hand of the person who sews it together into hats, bonnets, &c of various sizes and shapes, according to the prevailing fashions. They are then put on wooden blocks for the purpose of hot-pressing ; and, to render them of a more delicate white, they are again exposed to the fumes of sulphur.

There is also a kind of hats and bonnets called Leghorn chip, which is of a much more durable kind than our own straw, but not of
so good a colour.

Persons who make up these hats will earn half-a-guinea a week : but braiders or platters, if very expert, will earn more.